When applying color to a client with 75% gray, you should apply a color that is how many levels darker than the desired shade?

• A. The same shade
• B. One level darker than the desired shade
• C. Two levels darker
• D. Three levels darker

Answer: (B)

When a client has a high percentage of gray, you need to compensate for how gray hair accepts pigment. Gray strands lack natural pigment, so if you apply exactly the final shade, the gray can read lighter or appear uneven. By applying a color one level darker than the desired shade, you give the gray hair a bit more depth during processing. This extra depth helps the final result read as the intended shade once the color deposits across both the gray and pigmented hair. Using the exact shade would often under-deposit on gray, while going two or three levels darker would risk a final result that's too deep overall.